Perched high above Ubud’s lush canopy, a visit to the intimate Sayan Valley is an almost restorative affair. Overlooking the foliage-fringed Ayung River, this 12-table venue immerses guests in the rhythms of nature, with its idyllic location offering one of the best spots for catching the sunset in the region. Start with a cocktail – the Kaizen Spritz, with pandan-infused Aperol is our pick – and stumble into dinner, a selection of small plates, many of which are riffs on traditional favourites, from babi goreng (umami-rich fried pork) to rendang sapi.

Time travel (in this case, dropping in on a version of Bali reminiscent of some 50 years ago) is as easy as flying an hour east of Denpasar to what is sometimes called “the forgotten island” of Sumba. Dominated by undulating hills, this outpost is largely untouched by tourism, with the exception of a few pioneering resorts, including Nihi Sumba and Cap Karoso, which opened in 2023. Feel like opting out of modern life for a while? This is the place to do it. Explore Indonesia’s spiritual and cultural heart – view Indigenous art, wander megalithic tombs and try your hand at ikat weaving – then spend your afternoons watching horses frolic along white-sand Nihiwatu Beach or taking advantage of Sumba’s pristine turquoise swimming spots.

Couples seeking R&R should take refuge at the intimate 10-room Asa Maia in Uluwatu, a family owned resort dedicated to holistic health and healing. A central feature of the property is its subterranean hydrotherapy pools – one cooled to a chilly 7.5C and the other heated to 40C – intended to be alternated between in order to boost circulatory and immune systems. Days pass deliciously slowly despite being packed with visits to the onsite infrared sauna, yoga studio and spa, or simply bobbing around in the 25-metre saltwater infinity pool.

About half an hour’s drive north-west of Canggu is a new kind of Balinese destination. Pantai Nyanyi’s Nuuanu is a sprawling collective of accommodation, art activations, restaurants and workshop spaces, defined by futuristic architecture that twists, soars and ripples out of lush tropical surrounds. Intended as a hub of music festivals, artistic creation and community events, the “city” – parts of which are still under construction – is unlike anything the island has ever seen, attracting everyone from families to creatives and wellness seekers.

Forget the low-key yoga and one-off Ayurvedic treatments: if you’ve come to Bali to really relax, head straight to Gdas Bali, a wellness sanctuary with an extensive offering that now includes quarterly Atman Jnana retreats. Through a variety of workshops, meditation sessions, and expert-led classes, the programs entail a series of immersive experiences that promise to promote “self-reflection, personal growth, and holistic wellbeing”. It’s a case of choosing your own wellness adventure at this sprawling Ubud stay – whether it’s cryotherapy, colonics or the cultivation of emotional resilience, there’s a class or treatment for you.

Honouring the Japanese principles of Kansha (gratitude) and Omotenashi (selfless hospitality), Ubud’s MORI is dedicated to the considered preparation of food. Just six diners per sitting have the privilege of tasting the unique combination of Japanese proteins and locally sourced herbs prepared teppanyaki-style. The resulting experience is a celebration of Bali’s seasons, Japan’s produce and the warmth of both cultures.

Glittering ocean views will always have their place but little can compare to Anantara Ubud Bali Resort, a tropical paradise amid the lush jungle ravines and rice terraces of the region. Slated to open in October 2024, the property offers guests a choice of 66 spacious rooms and pool villas (plus, 15 Anantara-branded residences for those who want something a little more long-term), a multitude of dining options, a spa, the chain’s beloved kids’ club and, of course, close proximity to Ubud’s temples and shrines.

The aptly named Luna Beach Club does appear, at least architecturally, to be from another galaxy. Straddling the black-sand shores of Pantai in the aforementioned Nuanu City, an hour north-west of Denpasar, the stunning seaside location more than delivers on views – although you’ll be hard-pressed to keep your eyes on the ocean when night falls and the 24-metre THK tower lights up in a dazzling AI-led art show. There’s more than one place to sip on a sundowner, too – we’d suggest starting at Bali’s only beachfront beer garden (above) before sliding — literally — into Utopia Cave Club, an adults-only affair centred around an igloo-esque infinity pool that buzzes with live music and entertainment until midnight.

Fancy gliding through pristine waters aboard a luxury 15-suite yacht? Boutique small-ship company Aqua Expeditions offers itineraries in some of the region’s most prized destinations: Padar Island, Moyo Island and Komodo National Park. You’ll sail aboard the 30-passenger Aqua Blu – the first small-ship expedition yacht to be based in Eastern Indonesian – where the crew-to-guest ratio is one-on-one at full capacity. The itineraries, particularly the seven-night Bali to Komodo voyage, allow guests to explore untapped regions and indulge in activities that range from hiking an active volcano to discovering the impressive marine life on a dive of the Coral Triangle or strolling around ancient forts.

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