The Insider’s Guide to Dining Out in Carlton, Melbourne

Andrew Joy’s life has been steeped in hospitality, from stacking shelves in a Ballarat wine store when he was 16 to working front-of-house at classic Melbourne restaurants including Marion and Cumulus Inc. In 2018, he and sommelier Travis Howe opened a reincarnated version of the Carlton Wine Room, a multi-level space serving great food with wines to match. That might include a La Haine pinot noir from the Joy family’s Pyren Vineyard in the Victorian Pyrenees paired with stracciatella, pickled mushroom, chive oil and potato focaccia or boneless rib eye with classic condiments. These are some of Joy’s favourite neighbourhood spots.

D.O.C Gastronomia Italiana for pizza

“I love D.O.C for its flamboyant Italian service and thin-crust pizzas – they’re very simple but done perfectly. I tend to order the pizza San Daniele, with San Daniele prosciutto, San Marzano tomato and buffalo mozzarella. It’s beautiful pizza and a fun time.”

Sunhands for a shared platter

Breakfast at Sunhands in Carlton, Melbourne

“This hybrid wine bar, shop and deli is typically Melbourne. Pop in for coffee during the day or an excellent roast chicken sandwich with tarragon mayo and charred cabbage slaw for lunch. I go for a share platter of snacky things like local vegetables, pickles and goat’s curd with a glass of orange wine.”

Lagoon Dining for raw beef

“The food here is an interesting amalgam of Chinese, Sichuan and Korean influences that come together in modern Australian takes. The menu changes frequently but I love the tartare-style raw beef, which has a different inflection every time. Most recently it was served with a sambal vinaigrette, laksa leaf and crème fraîche.”

Geralds Bar for a Negroni

“Just over the border in Carlton North, this spot is an absolute institution with a fantastic wine list, rambunctious staff and eclectic décor. Owners Gerald and Mario are amazing. I stop by for a drink after work – I’m a sucker for a Negroni but they also have a great little selection of white burgundies. If you have the white anchovies and whatever they’ve got going on charcuterie-wise, you’re going to be pretty happy.”

Market Lane for coffee

“There’s always a group of locals hanging out the front of Market Lane drinking coffee, catching up with whoever’s brought their dog down, saying g’day. I have a long black, that’s it. There’s barely any inside seating but it’s the only place to go for coffee in Carlton.”

Florian for a herb and gruyère omelette

“Florian in Carlton North is fantastic for egg dishes: the soft eggs with cavolo nero, comté and béarnaise sauce is just delicious but so too is the herb and gruyère omelette. At lunch there are a few more substantial but simple things, like rainbow trout wrapped in flatbread with chopped parsley salad or maybe a lemony spaghetti with fior di latte.”