Solomon Islands has some of the best diving in the world. There are pristine reefs, World War II wrecks, a plethora of marine life such as barracuda, parrotfish, sea fans and pygmy seahorses and incredible geological formations including lava tubes known as the Twin Tunnels at Tulagi and Leru Cut, an indent that allows divers to swim into the interior of Leru Island.

Most Solomon Islanders reside in rural villages but Honiara, on the northwestern coast of Guadalcanal, is a burgeoning capital with a population of about 84,000. To get a real taste of Solomon Islands, head to the Central Market (pictured), a must-do shopping experience. It’s the Solomon supermarket: locals head here daily for fresh food; it’s also an important social event, a hub of activity and bustle. Tourists should go for the atmosphere but can also pick up local handicrafts and the sweetest pineapple you’ve ever tasted.

Before he was president, John F. Kennedy was stationed on Lubaria Island during World War II. He was patrolling with his crew when they were struck by a Japanese destroyer. Their boat sank and two crewmen were killed. Kennedy and the survivors survived for several days on coconuts before two local scouts found them and suggested Kennedy jot a rescue message on a coconut shell. The islanders delivered the message and the crew were saved; later, as president, Kennedy kept the coconut shell on his desk in the oval office. Kasolo Island was renamed Kennedy Island in his honour and although its gently swaying palms seem a world away from the violence of war, physical reminders of those events are everywhere you look.

Located east of Papua New Guinea, Solomons’ many islands are inhabited by Melanesian, Polynesian and Micronesian cultural groups whose focus on traditional ways of life sees Solomon Islands villages functioning much the same way as they have for hundreds of years. Solomon Islanders are proud of their customs and traditional values, known in Pijin as “kastom”. Visitors are welcomed in many villages, such as those in Lau Lagoon in Malaita. The lagoon has more than 60 artificial islands where locals, who call themselves “salt-water people” reside in thatched huts, fish the clear waters and grow taro and yam. There isn’t any formal accommodation in most Solomons villages but chiefs can place visitors in a homestay with a host family.

For the bird-lovers among us, Solomon Islands is a paradise of rare and endemic bird species. For truly intrepid twitchers, some of the most gratifying bird-spotting happens at altitude. Try Kolombangara Island, where Imbu Rano Lodge, built atop a ridge overlooking the Vila River valley, offers a purpose-built viewing deck.

As soon as you touch down in Honiara, you’ll notice a distinctive red tinge to some of the locals’ teeth. This is the betel nut grin, caused by regular chewing of the betel nut, which has a mildly euphoric effect. The betel nut is the seed of the Areca palm and it’s sold all over the islands. A few slices of the nut are wrapped in betel leaf along with a little calcium hydroxide (slaked lime) powder and sometimes some spices for flavour. The taste? Mildly peppery and a little bitter.

Since the Spanish became the first Europeans to pay a visit, the sovereign state, made up of six major islands and hundreds of smaller ones, has seen a good deal of upheaval. It was declared a British protectorate in 1893 and saw battle during WWII. It became independent in 1978. There followed a civil war from 1999 to 2003 and a devastating tsunami and earthquake in 2007. Solomon Islands National Museum in Honiara documents this history and has some fascinating artefacts.

If you’re seeking a true from escape from daily life, it’s necessary to check out of emails, Facebook and yes, Instagram. Forget capturing that glorious sunset for the ’gram and just soak it up, analogue style (with your eyes). And if you’re finding it hard, Solomons will take care of it for you: Wi-Fi is patchy at best.

Skull Island in the Western Province is where the heads of tribal chiefs and defeated enemies – head-hunters and the head-hunted – now reside. Dating to the 19th century, when headhunting raids were commonplace, the skulls are displayed in elaborate shrines decorated in shell money (shaped and polished shell fragments once used as currency).  It’s important not to visit Skull Island without permission of the local chief and the accompaniment of a guide. Dire consequences may lie ahead for anyone who dares: according to local lore, if certain rituals aren’t performed before a visit, spirits could harm visitors.